Perfect Wave

The Perfect Wave

Rising softly, soundly, and seamlessly through the water. Having a grand ole time.

The perfect wave begins to form in the distance. Taking the shape of a wall

that is between eight to twelve feet and still growing.

A once and a life time opportunity that one cannot let slip through their fingers.

Grabbing my board, sprinting into the water like a mad person

dodging the oncoming attacks of waves.

Duck diving and turtle rolling; doing anything to get to that wave in time.

Finally reaching the perfect position, the wave at its prime now flying towards me.

A quick turn-around and the knives on the end of my wrists cutting through the water faster

than the beat of a humming birds wing

doing anything to catch that wave.

As the wave envelopes the fins of my board and lunges my board forward, I stand up.

My fins ripping and cutting through the wave like a sharpened samurai sword through fruit.

The roaring of the wave as it crashes pierces my ears as it came ever so close to my body.

The perfect barrel began to form. Seeing my reflection on the back of the wave, feeling an unexplainable sensation. Feeling what was hours was only a matter of minutes.

Gyrating my board to pick up some speed, I was a bullet and shot out of the wave

completing one more rooster tail before I pulled out and ending my crave. and putting an end to one of the best days of my etire life., the